Body Kouros by YSL was launched in 2000 and it’s a belated restyling of the original Kouros from 1981 (just three years after the “living” legend Opium perfume). This new Kouros leaves behind the idea of leather, spices and clove for a mix of resins that bring some innovation to a fragrance from the eighties.
The notes
In the opening notes there are different layers: a note that smells like patchouli for its mix between green and sweet, and then, after few minutes another green fresh note of lavender or mint, which reminds of the original Kouros, and finally a note of dry vanilla or sweet amber. The middle notes the patchouli is left behind in favour of complex incense notes, some with hints of wood, and others with fresh mint. And again citron, resins and wood. The base notes arrive after 3 -4 hours and contain clove and a slight spicy hint, close to anise.
All in all, a very complex perfume, yet very well balanced in all its components. At times Body Kouros is compared to B*Men by Thierry Mugler (a member of the Angel perfume family), but it’s actually less spicy and the citron notes stick to the skin more than in B*Men.
When to use it
Body Kouros can be used all year long, although it’s more at ease in cold winter days or during the first part of the spring when it’s not too warm yet. It is ok to wear it in the office, making sure not to spray too much of it, otherwise it may become intrusive.
The evening and night use is the perfect environment for this perfume, especially in semi-informal occasions. In romantic situations, the ever-changing aroma draws attention and invites to get closer. The resins project a masculine idea without being old.

Hidden Fantasy by Britney Spears.

Hidden Fantasy was launched in 2009 and it’s the third fragrance of the perfume line “Fantasy” (the first was Fantasy in 2005 and Midnight Fantasy in 2007.

The opening notes are fruity, red and sweet, something between morello cherry, cherry, and strawberry. There is also a more explicit sweet sugar note, even if it’s milder than the one in Midnight Fantasy, and actually closer to caramel and vanilla. The middle notes are still sweet, but they start to separate and become more defined: fruity notes are citrus orange on one side and sweet vanilla florals in the other. In the final notes the citrus becomes orange with some trace of lemon, and a spicy clove and vanilla.

Even if this perfume has fresh middle notes, the opening is perhaps too sweet to prolong the fresh after-shower morning, sensation, but it’s perfect for an afternoon stroll in the city.

I confess I used to think that celebrity perfumes were just pure marketing campaigns with no quality behind, but after Hidden Fantasy I had to start to change my mind.

Flowerbomb Eau de Parfum by Viktor & Rolf

Flowerbomb was launched in 2005 and was the first perfume of fashion designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who had been in the fashion industry since 1993. The opening notes are sweet with praline and patchouli, with others florals in the background, which are covered by the sweet notes (something between Angel perfume by Thierry Mugler and CH by Carolina Herrera). The middle notes the floral become more prominent and it’s easier to smell sweet roses with a soft and also sweet wood and probably vanilla. The final notes are essentially vanilla with the praline now in the background.

Compared to its Eau de Toilette version, Flowerbomb is much more gourmand (a technical word of the perfume world for “so sweet it makes you want to eat it”), and less floral. It’s ideal for an office use, any time of the year, especially if you want to draw attention without being too intrusive.